A history of the churches in Woodchester

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The Parish Church

The history of the Parish Church in Woodchester is long. The first mention of a parish priest is in 896 and is the earliest mention of a priest on record in England:
A Witanagemot (an assembly of wise men) was summoned by King Alfred and was held at Gloucester. At this assembly, the Bishop of Worcester complained that well on nigh all the woodland of Woodchester, which had been granted to the See by King Athelbald in the early 8th Century, had been taken by one Ethelwald, a local thane. A compromise was made under which Ethelwald and his son could keep the property for their lives, excepting some pig pasture at Long Ridge, and thereafter it had to revert to the See of Worcester. Whereupon Ethelwald's yeoman, accompanied by the village priest Wulpen, rode around the bounds of the land.
The Saxon system of local government was based on each village having a leader elected by the free families of the village. Every village was grouped in to Hundreds, each with its own court.
The parish boundaries are of saxon origin and the church was built over the Roman Villa on the site of the Great Pavement.
The old church is no longer standing, save for some small ruins of a Norman chancel arch and the north doorway. The fragments show it was of the early Norman type. There is no indication that in decoration or building it was particularly distinguished and by the the middle of the 19th Century the old church was both too small and had fallen into a bad state of repair. Verey, in his book on Cotswold churches says that the villages, most of whom were Church of England, wanted a church that would match or exceed the new Roman Catholic religious centre that had been built in south Woodchester. Hence it was decided to pull the old church down and a new church was built in the middle of the village. There was no protest in the village at losing their old church. (Pictures of the site of the old church can be seen here.)
A description from 1851 stated that the church had a nave and south aisle, chancel and west tower, the whole much modernized but with some early features. It noted that it was encumbered with hideous pews and galleries. There was also a covered passageway that ran from the manor house to one of the galleries.
The peculiar poverty of the church is out of character with the surrounding wealth generated by the woollen industry. There is no reasonable explanation as to why the church was not enlarged and improved from the time that the mills flourished from the 14th century.

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State of Woodchester Church. 1563
"That one James Clark has had unlawful copulation with one Alice Aldersay so that she is delivered with child.
The present the churchyard gate isn't well repaired in default of the parish.
The chancel isn't well covered nor well glazed in the default of one Francis Wye, Gentleman who was a former there and they say that they have complained often times and can have no redress, the parsonage now is in the hands of Mr Thomas Freman who has had it but this month.
The register of christenings, burials and marriages hasn't been well kept by the default of one Sir John Randall who was curate under Mr Wye who couldnot write to make the book perfect."

A Raid by Colonel Massey. 1642
"Ferebe, John was Rector of Woodchester and as he was one day at the font, a party of Colonel Massey's men came in with drawn swords. They pulled off his surplice (which one of them, putting on, wore on his way back) tore the Common Prayer Book, stripped him of his clothes except for his drawers and drove him barefooted and bare legged into Gloucester where he was kept for many days in a damp and low room."
Suffering of the Clergy. John Walker 1714.

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Rectors of Woodchester
  896: Wulphin
1304: William Mautravers
1317: John Dodedridge
          Nicholas
1349: William of Rombourgh
1375: Robert Hohenale
1436: William Dyemore
           Richard Higdon
1521: Simon Seward
1560: Thomas Freeman
1585: Jasper Merrick
1587: John Tullie
1610: Thomas Ferreby
1624: John Fereby
1656: Thomas Audley
1662: John Edwards
1670: James Stanfield
1723: John King
1723: Thomas Dibble
1756: Peter Hawker
1808: Peter Hawker (son of the above)
1833: John Williams
1858: George Evans
1880: Frederick Smith
1914: George Watton
1920: William Payne
1923: Arthur Pink
1947: Herbert Woolcot
1956: Noel Back
1964: Philip Myatt
1970: John Cull
1990: David Green

 

Monument to James Smith 1757
"Affliction sore long time I bore
    Physicians were in vain
Till God did please Death should me seize
    To ease me of my pain"

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The old churchyard measured about two thirds of an acre. By the time it was decided to move the church it was estimated that over 3,000 burials had taken place there.
Vaults of the Bridges, Browning, Peach, Wathen, King and Smith families were within the foundations of the church. Scattered in the churchyard were  many tombstones bearing well known names of the locality: Cambridge, Browne, Cholmeley, Paul, Harrison, Drew, Webb, Churches, Deane, Cooks, Ball, Long, Collett, Tiley, Heron, Hopkins, Jones, Turner, Pavey, Hawker, Howard, Workman, Heaven, Pierce, Dudbridge, Wade, Hillman, Radcliffe, Fisher, Gough, Clarke, Jackson, Ford, Cyde, Boulton, Iles, and Walker.
In the north east corner of the churchyard is the Dunn family tomb with stones representing the Trinity and the Circle of Eternity. There are eight alter tombs in the railed Paul enclosure.
The inscription on one of the tombs reads:
 

Sir Onesiphorus Paul, Bart. died Sept.21st 1774, Aged 68.
To the memory of Catherine Lady Paul, second wife of Sir Onesiphorus Paul, Bart. Eldest daughter of Francis Freeman of Norton Malereward in the County of Somerset Esq. She departed this Life ye 20th day of Oct. 1766 in ye 56th year of her age.

The old church yard is a wonderfully peaceful place. There is still the yew tree walk from the gate to where the main entrance to the church would have been. The tombs are now beginning to decay and some are crumbling but a few of the inscriptions have been restored in the past and are easily readable.
 

Names on Headstones in the churchyard recorded by Ralph Bigland
Name Died Age Name Died Age
Mary Backer 25 January 1793 76 Hannah Heaven 11 September 1736
Moses Browning 21 November 1773 82 Lydia Heaven 4 November 1773 10
Samuel Browning 9 June 1797 75 Joseph Hoddinott 14 May 1773 77
Mary, his wife 25 June 1770 50 Martha, his wife 20 May 1771 75
John Creed 12 December 1738 68 Martha Hodges 14 June 1757 66
Mary, his wife 31 December 1739 59 Elizabeth Pegler 18 November 1772 72
William Creed 14 February 1792 66 Benjamin Perry 12 February 1792 79
John Dudbridge 24 June 1792 87 Mary Perry 25 January 1789 75
Walter Heaven 23 May 1763 67 Jacob Walkley 19 June 1696 50

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Seating Plan in the Church. 1816.
Lord Ducie, Sir G.O.Paul, Sir S. Wathen, Haycock, Howard, Harrison, Cooper, Long, Skelton, Horlick, Ball, Summers, Moore, Hills, Watts, Jenner, Dudbridge, Merrett, Quarrington, Chalk, Afams, Hodges, Creed, Nrowing and Drived.
 

The New Church of St. Mary's

The new church was built in the centre of North Woodchester on a large site donated by the Wise family.  The money to build the church was raised by local subscription and the church was consecrated on 24th September 1863.
The architect was S.S.Teulon and it was built by Harrison of King's Stanley (who also built Selsley Church.) It is an orthodox design and his designs were of a low church nature.
Inside, the design is simple but well proportioned and can seat 480. (Teulon also designed churches at Kingscote, Uley and Newton Bagpath.
There is some excellent Victorian stained glass by Preedy, Lavers and Barraud and some memorials were brought from the old church including the Huntley monument, a 16th Century cenotaph for the then Lord of the Manor Sir George Huntley and his wife.  George Huntley died in 1580 having had the Manor of Woodchester bestowed on him by Elizabeth 1st. A detailed listing of the memorials can be found at this external link.
Woodchester Memorials
The bells include those from the old church and date from the 14th Century, 1738, 1759, 1793
and two recast bells from 1956.
(To find out more about bell-ringing at the church).
  

Stained Glass Memorials in the new Church
1. Henry Daniel Cholmely and his first wife.
2. Rev. Dr Williams and his children.
3. Rev. Charles Old Goodford, Provost of Eton.
4. Mrs Deene.
5. Mr John Woolwright and his three daughters.
6. Rev. Basil Williams.
7. The architect S.S.Teulon.
8. Miss Gladys Paul who died in 1902 in Cape Town
9. The Paul window erected by Edward John Dean Paul to several of his relatives.
10. Capt. C.R.Wedgewood Allen, killed whilst flying over Salisbury Plain in 1914.
11. Anselin Dudbridge Pimbury and his wife Margaret.
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The Baptist Church

The first Baptist Society in Woodchester is mentioned in 1742 when, in writing to Mr John Cennick, Mr Thomas Adams says "I visited both the Society at Wichester (Woodchester) and Chafford (Chalfont.) At both of which places our dear Saviour manifested his power abundantly." Later in the 18th Century and early 19th Century various houses were licensed and chapels set up in them for dissenters.
In 1822 a private room was opened in Woodchester for preaching services on week-nights under the pastoral care of the Baptist Church at King's Stanley.
In 1825 a small chapel was opened overseen by Mr Peter King who is credited with being the instigator of the flourishing church that continued until the 1970s.
 

The Roman Catholic Church of the Annunciation

Below, is a photograph of a distant view of the church looking east towards Amberley.

  The building of the Church of the Annunciation began in 1846. The foundation stone was laid by Bishop Ullathorne and the church was consecrated in 1849 and the first sermon was preached by Bishop Wiseman who, a year later, became Cardinal Archbishop of Westminster.
The church was commissioned by William Leigh (see Woodchester Mansion) and was the church of the Priory that he also had built. Leigh's vision was to establish a religious house at Woodchester and he had approached the Congregation of the Passionists to take up his offer. They accepted and whilst the church and priory were being built they took up temporary residence at Northfieds Road, Forest Green with their leader Dominic Barberi. However, by the time the priory was complete the Passionists had decided to move on and their place was taken by the Dominicans.
Leigh asked A.W. Pugin to draw up plans but subsequently Pugin decided not to take the commission and the project was handed to Charles Hansom although it is generally believed that Hansom's design borrowed heavily from Pugin's as the church has many elements in it's design which are Puginesque. (In the church is a sketch reputed to be by Pugin of the church.)
The church is a fine example of Victorian architecture and craftsmanship. Its dimensions are pleasing: 115 feet long, 36 feet wide and with wide north and south aisles. The church has a nave, a chancel and aisles with a north tower topped by an octagonal spire. An unusual rood screen, incorporating a walk-over, separates the chancel from the nave. There are some excellent wood carvings and interesting paintings; one, high above the chancel arch, is by Henry Doyle and depicts the Last Judgement.
A side chapel, dedicated to the Forty Martyrs of Sebaste is devoted to the memory of William Leigh and his family. They are buried in the vault beneath and there is an alabaster effigy of William Leigh in the chapel. There are also stained glass windows that commemorate Leigh, his family, friends and also his employees such as Mr Peake, the steward of Woodchester Park.
There is also the imposing stone tomb of Francis Nicholson, the Archbishop of Corfu, who died whilst staying with the Leighs.
In the floor of the Martyr's Chapel there are two brass plaques dedicated to Leigh and his wife; one has the inscription "Of your charity, pray for the souls of William and Caroline Leigh founders of this church and for their family."
 

In 1828 William Leigh married Caroline Cotterell, fifth daughter of Sir John Geers Cotterel of Garnons, Herefordshire. They had four children: Caroline Blanche who died in 1852 aged 21, and Beatrice Catherine, who died in 1867 aged 32, both unmarried; a son who died in infancy; and another son, also called William born in 1829. This sons wife died at the age of 29, after bearing five children.

Another plaque is dedicated to the memory of George Archer-Shee, the 'Winslow Boy' made famous by Terence Rattigan's play.
The adjacent monastery was completed in 1853 and was given to the Dominican Order by William Leigh.
In 1885, there was a magnificent ceremony in the church when the Rt. Rev. George Vincent King was consecrated Archbishop of Trinidad (Port of Spain.) He had previously been a novice of the monastery. He is also buried at the church.
The priory became the training ground for many notable Dominicans, including several Archbishops of Port of Spain in Trinidad and a number of writers and preachers such as Bede Jarrett and Vincent McNab. Also, Cardinal Bourne, Archbishop of Westminster, was a novice here. The Domincans attracted to the area a circle of lay convert scholars, including John Moore Capes, Mathew Bridges - the hymnologist - and William Wilberforce. When Wilberforce died a requiem mass was held in the church with Cardinal Newman leading the service.
In 1966 the Dominicans moved away and, unfortunately, the monastery was demolished in 1971 (although it was in a bad state of repair) but the church continues to serve the catholics in the area.
A large crucifix, standing in a field below the church is in memory of many men of the neighbourhood who fell in World War One.
 
 

Priors of Woodchester
Dominic Aylward, 1854
Lewis Gonin, 1857
Thomas Nickolds, 1860 
Lewis Gonin, 1860 (later an Archbishop) 
Augustine Procter, 1863
Vincent King, 1866
Lewis Weldon, 1870
Paul Stapleton, 1881
Gregory Kelly, 1884
Thomas Laws, 1886
Wilfred Lescher, 1889
Antonius Williams, 1892
Gabriel Whitacre, 1894
Ambrose Smith, 1897
 
 

 

Vincent McNabb,1900
Robert Bracey, 1906
Laurence Peach, 1908
Ralph Moss, 1911
Hugh Pope, 1914
Robert Bracey, 1920
Hyacinth Koos, 1933
Reginald Ginns, 1938
Wulstan McCuskern, 1941
Bruno Walkley, 1944
Casimir Chases, 1945
Mark Brocklehurst, 1948
Anthony Ross, 1951
Sebastian Bullough, 1954
Egbert Cole, 1957
Henry St John, 1958
Kenneth Wykeham- George, 1958
Mark Brocklehurst, 1961
Godfrey Anstruther 1965
Gerard Meath, 1966

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In 1881 there were twenty monks at the Dominican Priory at the time of the census.
 
 

Pud Hill, Dominican Priory, Woodchester.
Name Age Place of Birth
Edward Buckler 46 Newington, Surrey
Henry Buckler 41 Newington, Surrey
Richard Whitehead 29 Liverpool, Lancashire
John Fenton 47 Newcastle, Northumberland
Wilfred Lescher 33 Hampstead, Middlesex
Daniel Mackey 29 Erdington, Warwick
Harry Reader 30 Ireland
Basil Shermite 25 France
Hugh Testenoir 22 France
Daniel Cavanagh 23 Ireland
Francis Monselle 22 Marylebone, Middlesex
Frederic Gurrin 22 Paddington, Middlesex
Robert Priest 27 Southsea, Hampshire
Aloysius Luigi 28 Rome
Michael Brothers 30 Ireland
Arthur McKenna 40 Shotley Bridge, Durham
Christopher McCaffrey 48 Ireland
James Smith 37 Birmingham, Warwick
Patrick McCunnan 33 Ireland
Samuel Mason 42 Ireland

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Franciscan Convent
The community of Enclosed Franciscan Nuns was established by William Leigh in 1860. They resided at Summerwells House next to the Dominican Priory.  In the first instance sixteen nuns formed the new foundation but gradually the numbers increased. During the next five years the house was extended as the community grew and in 1869, Charles Hansom designed a beautiful chapel.
They also esablished an orphanage for girls in 1862. This was finally closed in 1927.
It is of interest to note, that in the list of nuns and orphans taken from the 1881 Census (see below), there were none from the local area suggesting the rather isolated nature of the community.
(There is still a small community of  Poor Clare nuns today and they have their own web-site.)
 

Name Age Place of Birth
Sophia Luck 46 West Malling, Kent
Francis Addis 67 London, Middlesex
Maria Addis 68 London, Middlesex
Helen Sidgreaves 76 Inglewhite, Lancashire
Fanny Gain 67 Exeter, Devon
Anne Bird 63 Greenwich, Middlesex
Harriet Berrington 61 Worcester
Constantia Mostyn 52 Northampton
Ellen Thornley 57 Hadfield, Derby
Eliza Forrest 48 Aveton Gifford, Devon
Elizabeth Sargeant 58 Colchester, Essex
Helena Davis 48 Bath, Somerset
Winifred King 38 Bath, Somerset
Eugenia Baillon 37 Nottingham
Elizabeth Anderton 47 Haighton, Lancashire
Louisa Hammond 43 Cape of Good Hope, Africa
Lucy Rhodes 37 Stanmore, Middlesex
Alicia MacDonald 31 Taunton, Somerset
Rose Ray 31 Sydney, Wales
Agnes Ray 31 Sydney, Wales
Clare Hatherley 28 Barton on Humber, Lincoln
Caroline Wilberforce 37 Alverstoke, Hampshire
Georgina Marshall 44 London, Middlesex
Mary Bond 59 St Mawgan, Cornwall
Mary Lane 55 Wardour, Wiltshire
Alice Horn 55 Haighton, Lancashire
Jane Gregson 49 Whillingham, Lancashire
Catherine Hogan 56 Bristol, Gloucester
Mary Wilce 37 Mitchelltroy, Monmouth
Mary Jackson 50 Cheadle, Stafford
Mary Foyle 28 Wardour, Wiltshire
Mary Broadway 24 London, Middlesex
Annie Fisk 34 Norwich, Norfolk
Anne M. Penrice 30 Norwich Thorp, Norfolk
Isabella Sweeney 20 Greenock, Scotland
Mary A. Plumley 15 Bristol, Somerset
Agnes C. Angel 14 Dudley, Stafford
Eleanor Donovan 14 Burgess Hill, Sussex
Ann McGarry 14 Manchester, Lancashire
Katherine L. Francis 14 Bristol, Somerset
Maud M. Collingwood 14 Bristol, Somerset
Anne M. Dunleny 13 America
Mary Hennessy 13 Bath, Somerset
Rose Wiltshire 13
Eveline Francis 12 Bristol, Somerset
Laura M. Lee 12 Nottingham
Agnes M. Simpson 12 Clifford, York
Ellen Cartwright 12
Mary E. Ridley 11 Shernal, Warwick
Edith M.Hanley 11 Broadway, Worcester
Margaret Wiles 11 London, Middlesex
Teresa M. Elliott 11 Bristol
Alice M. Lee 10 Nottingham
Teresa M. Webber 9 Bridgewater, Somerset
Elizabeth Simpson 9 Clifford, York
Eliza Wedmore 9 Bristol, Somerset
Mary A. O'Brian 8 Cardiff, Glamorgan
Julia O'Brian 6 Cardiff, Glamorgan
Mary J. Kelly 5 Scotland
Louisa O' Neill 22 Taunton, Somerset
Clare Tyne 22 Bristol, Gloucester
Mary A. Cross 21 Sutton, Wiltshire
Mary A. King 18 Hatch, Wiltshire
Catherine Dowding 17 Staines, Berkshire
Teresa Saunders 17 Ireland
Rose Burton 15 Sutton, Wiltshire

 
William Leigh was born 4th November 1802, the son of William Leigh, a merchant from Liverpool. Part of the family fortune had come from the slave trade and it is thought that William's guilt was in part responsible for him becoming deeply religious and converting to catholicism.
William was educated at Eton and Brasenose College, Oxford.
In 1828 he married Caroline Cotterell and they lived in Staffordshire where he was a zealous magistrate, quelling the colliery riots of the period.  In 1837 he endowed an Anglian Cathedral in the city of Adelaide, Australia, where he had business interests, but at some stage shortly thereafter he converted to Rome and bestowed his money on the catholics to build a cathedral in the city. His conversion  generated hostility in his home County and hence the decision to move to Woodchester. Here he started to enact his vision of building a medieval house for himself and establish a monastic order of monks and nuns on his estate which led to Woodchester becoming the English home of the Dominican Order.
William Leigh died in 1873 at the age of 70. For many years he had been in poor health and he had debts and a mortgage at the time of his death although his family were able to take over the estate.

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